![]() ![]() Usually when mixing 90 minute it will appear to be a good consistancy, but after 5 or 10 minutes it will get stiffer because the water has soaked into the powder. If your 90 minute is getting stiff after 20 minutes it could be 2 things. As easy-sand, or all setting compounds cure, it isn't possible to have them re-harden once they have cured. You can't use a wet sponge on setting type compound, as the priciple of wet sponging is to rehydrate the outer surface of the compound and have that fill in voids, and "melt down" the ridges. You don't have too long to work with it once it starts to set,though. YOu can smooth setting mud with a trowel and some water if you time it right. I think now that you are using joint mud you might as well stick with it. As you put on the last coats less mud is better than more mud.ģ/4" is a lot to build out with joint mud especially if it is a large area. ![]() Don't try to leave the first few coats perfect just build it out close to the finished thickness then worry about getting it good after you get close to the final coat. For spreading the starting consistency should be about like peanut butter or maybe a little stiffer if you are trying to build it out a lot. mud is setting in 20 min you might be mixing in a dirty container or mixing with dirty water. What is off 3/4" Do you mean it is that far out of plumb or are there offsets that are off by that much? If it off plumb does it need to be plumb for some reason? Then, after that dries, then your trowel/knife will now be able to ride on the dried mud on the left and on the right and this will enable you to fil the middle, and it will all be in-plane, automatically.ĭo you follow this? This technique takes 2 steps, but avoids any unnecessary sanding out of ridges/high spots because what you have done is gradually fill in the low spot in 2 steps, by a theoretical method which automatically causes you to have to make the wall come out in a flat plane. But, the mud that is setting will be on-plane. When finished, for the first coat, you should have a layer of mud that is about 6 inches in from each stud, with a void still down the middle between the studs. Then on the right side, where the right stud is, you apply pressure with the trowel/knife to the right of the right stud. Don't worry about filling the entire cavity between the studs! The objective is to float out an amount that is in-plane with the wall to the left of the left stud. I can get fills to come out requiring no sanding, with such a method.Īnother tip for filling, lets say for a long vertical belly lying between studs: On your first coat, you would want to skim vertically, with the stud, with the "belly", and apply mud using your knife or trowel in such a way that you overlap and apply pressure of the trowel/knife so that at the left vertical stud you would have the largest portion of the trowel to the left of the left stud. This will prevent gouges from setting the trowel or mudknife into the already skimmed material. Then after that switching, and you get close, then you can even go diagonally.Īnother tip is to pull your mud into, not away from, what you are applying. Remember.on your initial coats your objective is simply to fill the low areas.Īnother tip that helps when filling low areas and you are having trouble with waves being created is to come back on successive coats and fill the waves in by going 90 degrees to the skimming direction you did before. You better be because sanding it is very difficult (although it can easily be shaved while in the bar-of-of-soap consistency stage of setting. It comes in 20, 45, 90.up to 210 minute set time, I think) I am pretty good at working with this stuff. (But if you are going to try to screed and you fear the time element, because you want to mix up large batches at once, then get a time-set you feel comfortable with. I like to use the really hard quick set stuff. Working with the bagged stuff is the way to go, as opposed to ready mix. You could have used veneer plaster also, but unless you are used to knowing how to really work a trowel every which way and knowing how long to let it set and all that, it may just as well be done the way you are doing. ![]() Then you will at least have a flat plane to final topcoat, which will be much easier. If it is as bad as you say.screeding it may be the proper method of choice. ![]()
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